Continental Divide Trail 2015

I've been writing more on my other blog lately...this winter I'm preparing for a northbound thru-hike of the Continental Divide Trail. This hike will complete my triple crown of long distance trails in the U.S. and, more importantly, give me the chance to disappear into the wilderness for about 5 months. Can't wait!

I hope to do a lot of boating this winter, but many of my trips will be on two feet...like last weekend in the Ochoco Mountains near Bend:

Check in at www.sherahikes.wordpress.com throughout the winter if you are interested in the hike, and follow me when I start from the Mexican border mid-April and start hiking to Canada!

Renee

R2ing to McKenzie River

Yeee haa! We could get used to this

Solitude in Spring on the Grande Ronde River

So we got a new boat.

A 13'8" Sotar raft to be exact, and it's beautiful.

Kirk's old frame fits, but a new boat deserves a new frame, right??

The purchase lined up nicely with the rising water levels around the state, and we decided to head to the deep chasm of the Owhyee River. Hot springs, ancient canyon walls and a chance to run a river that only comes up high enough to boat once a year (or maybe not) was a powerful draw. I spent the weeks before our trip checking the water levels hoping they would reach 1,000cfs, the minimum we wanted to raft the section from Rome down.

The week of the trip I was disappointed to see it just wasn't going to happen. Water was just too low, so on to plan B. The Grande Ronde! This river doesn't deserve to be second place, but we had already been down it once before in our packrafts and I like to choose a new adventure when given a choice. Water levels were in the high 6,000cfs and would carry us much more quickly down the river than our previous September trip.

I got back in touch with Grant at Minam Raft Rentals to see if he wanted to join, but his brand new baby boy, Callan, was keeping him close to home. So Kirk and I loaded up our gear along with our friend JJ and his kayak, and drove late into the night from Bend to reach the put-in on a chilly Wednesday evening.


So here we have it: a new raft, the photo essay:

Rigging...hmmm, how does this all fit?

Ok, ready!

The Steelhead were running

We found some beautiful camps

I give the oars a try

On our ride out we got to look upstream at the majestic river.

We love this part of the state. We didn't see any other boats on the water and had the privilege to see 2 bears, some mountain goats, and tons of elk. Just a wonderful weekend, despite a little rain.

Hikertrash

Here is my shameless little plug for my new business: hikertrash.

What is hikertrash you might ask?

Backpackers who are out for weeks or months on the trails often are mistaken for the homeless...it could be the smell, or dirt, or ravenous way they attack any kind of food in town. The phrase is common on the trails, and I have been self-identifying as hikertrash for years.

A few years ago I taught myself how to screenprint, designing primarily bike graphics, but a few hikertrash graphics crept in there too.

For this recent incarnation I have partnered with Brian Frankle, founder of ULA packs and designer for Six Moon Design's new pack line. He has the business sense, I have the incurable enthusiam for the hikertrash lifestyle.

We are starting with a line of trucker hats, shirts, stickers & coozies, but have lots of other products and designs in mind.

A percentage of our sales will go to support one of the three long distance trail associations in the U.S.: Pacific Crest Trail Association, Appalachian Trail Conservancy or Continental Divide Trail Coalition.

So take a look, buy a hat or let us know what other kinds of things you would like to see.

Thanks!

Beyond Packrafting...Rafting the Lower Deschutes

For a while I've been wanting to start writing about some of our other trips, we get out in so much more than packrafts, but is this blog the right place? Should I start a separate site for adventures other than packrafting? Or include all our trips here? Not sure quite yet, so for the mean time I'll include them here.

For Thanksgiving we decided to yet again head for the water. Last year you may remember our packrafting trip on the North Fork of the John Day River, it was complete with Turkey and pie and dropping water levels.

The year before we rafted the Lower Deschutes River from Warm Springs to Maupin, and we decided to complete the journey and raft from Maupin (for those familiar with the area we actually put on below Shears Falls at Buck Hollow) to the Columbia River.

As two years before, we were joined by two good thru-hiking friends, Speed Stick (Mary) and Luigi (John). Instead of all piling on one raft this year, Kirk and I decided to borrow a friend's Super Puma.

That is one sexy boat.

We had been talking about getting one of these bad boys...for many reasons. One, together we could boat some bigger water than I'd like to solo boat...Kirk started out the pitch by showing me people R2ing waterfalls and Class V water.  I would love to boat more stuff like that, but don't know if my packrafting skills will progress to that level (or if I want them too...) but with Kirk in the boat directing our paddle strokes I could see us running A LOT more stuff. Two, we could outfit this boat for longer trips and even set it up as a mini oar-rig. (And we probably wouldn't have to carry other people's stuff!). Three, we only have a 14' bucket boat right now. Four, this can go creeking!

We put on the river at Buck Hollow, approximately 40 river miles from the Columbia River. We had a 10 lb turkey, pumpkin pie, mashed potatoes, stuffing, cranberry sauce, gravy, green beans, rolls, wine and enough beer to float us for the next four days. Mary was watching Bella, our friend's black lab, so she came along for the ride. 

Beer and dogs make good companions on the river.

That morning we dropped into the Deschutes River canyon amid a freezing fog...once the sun hit us we warmed up a bit, but the air was cold and our late fall sun didn't break through the thousands of feet of canyon walls very often. 

At noon we still didn't have much sun in the canyon.

Frozen waterfalls marked our way.

We made camp the first night and set to work heating up the Turkey and fix'ns. YUM.

Mary and John dig in.

Thats the stuff!

We woke to a bitter cold morning, everything was frozen and putting on the water when the sun was still behind the canyon walls wasn't an exciting prospect. But, we donned dry suits and sipped hot coffee and it got better.

Our float was fairly mellow. Most of the rapids of Class II & III would be the following two days, so we floated along and enjoyed the sponsored goods Mary brought (she is the only girl I know sponsored by BEER. Thanks to Hop Valley out of Eugene, OR we had plenty of bevys all weekend.)

The impressive canyon continues

Hop Valley Rocks!

Camp the second night was a cozy affair, a fire kept us warm into the darkness, but the temps were warmer than the night before and all were happier for it.

We cooked up a pound of bacon and a dozen eggs in the morning to get us fueled up for another chilly day on the water.

Camping in the kitchen is only a good idea if you are an early riser....

More boating, more water. Kirk and I were enjoying the R2ing in the Super Puma....getting closer to wanting one of our own.

Super Puma on the move.

We were the only boats on the river.

Toasting a great trip.

Our last camp was a bumpy burned-out affair, a fire this year left much of the lower river corridor scorched.

The only flat spot around.

Our final day saw a few rapids and I have to say, the Super Puma did quite well. We'll be seriously thinking about this boat in the future.

The terrain got milder and we started to see the wind mills that trademark much of the Columbia Gorge today.

The canyon gets milder.

We took out about noon and finished with cold turkey sandwiches. Yet another awesome river trip with good friends.

Super Puma in our future? I hope so.

Oregon Desert Trail

Last summer I met up with my good friend Sage Clegg as she attempted the first continuous trip on the new Oregon Desert Trail.

The Oregon Desert Trail (ODT) is a 800 mile hiking route that starts near Bend and ends at Lake Owyhee State Park, near the Snake River in Idaho.

Here is an excerpt from my journal during that visit:

As we drove down the two-track dirt road towards Schoolhouse Spring near the base of Oregon Canyon, the headlights bounced off curious jack rabbits and hopping field mice. Dusk brought little relief from the heat, and as we rolled up to our stopping place for the night, cows ran in all directions to escape the path of the vehicle.

We were attempting to meet Sage on the Oregon Desert Trail with gifts of fruit, cold beer and some good company. A strong wind and bright moonlight led to a restless night's sleep, but when Sage walked up at 6:30 the next morning we sprang up ready to hear about her adventure.

Apparently Oregon Canyon had been a bushwhack fest and her legs were red from hundreds of scratches; the brush was not forgiving. After some hot coffee and berries, we donned packs for the 12ish mile hike to Highway 95 where Kirk would meet us and take us into McDermitt for some relief from the sun.

The day was scorching, but I was excited to hike. Even though we just met a few years ago, Sage and I share many through-hiking experiences. Tales of our different Appalachian Trail, Pacific Crest Trail and other hiking adventures helped the hot miles pass. We talked of the future of the ODT and the roll we have to play, and when we left the easy hiking of the two-track road for the cross-country miles, we played dodge the sagebrush and hop the fence.

Close to the highway we came upon a cool and clear cow tank and couldn't resist splashing around to escape the 100-plus-degree day. Water was plentiful in this flat walk, thanks to the ranchers and their numerous cow tanks. While it could be scummy with green algae or seeping into the ground in a muddy pool, we both were grateful for the appearance of water. We had both been on desert hikes before, on my Arizona Trail hike I often had to drink from muddy water full of cow pies, but that was infinitely preferable to no water. Sage had experienced all sorts of water sources on her Continental Divide Trail and Grand Enchantment Trail; any water is good water!

 Kirk met us at the road and we sped to the Oregon/Nevada border town of McDermitt. Lunch was in the dark Say When Casino & Cafe on the Nevada side, and after she retrieved her food drop box and gift of cookies from Adam's mom, we drove to Anderson Crossing.

At Anderson Crossing (two day's walk from where the ODT meets Hwy 95) we planned to leave a food cache for Sage, and tonight would camp on the banks of the West Little Owyhee River. The crossing marks a 180-degree shift in trailtread, as from this point to the end of the trail Sage will be walking in the river canyon or along the rim of the dramatic geological wonder.

It was SO HOT, so we plopped camp chairs in the water and popped open a few beers. Little brook trout were plentiful and beaver activity had dammed up the river right above where we sat soaking our feet. 

Kirk and I are packrafters and even though the waterway was narrow and choked with willows at places, decided a pack-rafting alternate would be a great addition to this section of the ODT.

In the morning the sun brought the heat back in full-force. Sage arranged and rearranged her gear; as she wasn't sure how efficient her travel would be though the canyon, she was packing extra food and decided to borrow Kirk's larger Granite Gear Vapor Trail pack (a favorite among many through-hikers for its light weight -- 2 lbs 5 oz -- and large capacity -- 59 liters or 3,600 cubic inches).

We dug a hole in the ground and buried her food, pilling it high with rocks to deter any animals.

We returned to McDermitt, where Sage checked into the motel for a true 0 day (no hiking) to rest her feet and prepare for the next section. After milkshakes and double-bacon cheeseburgers, we said our goodbyes and headed back to Bend.

As we drove down the two-track dirt road towards Schoolhouse Spring near the base of Oregon Canyon, the headlights bounced off curious jack rabbits and hopping field mice. Dusk brought little relief from the heat, and as we rolled up to our stopping place for the night, cows ran in all directions to escape the path of the vehicle.

We were attempting to meet Sage on the Oregon Desert Trail with gifts of fruit, cold beer and some good company. A strong wind and bright moonlight led to a restless night's sleep, but when Sage walked up at 6:30 the next morning we sprang up ready to hear about her adventure.

Apparently Oregon Canyon had been a bushwhack fest and her legs were red from hundreds of scratches; the brush was not forgiving. After some hot coffee and berries, we donned packs for the 12ish mile hike to Highway 95 where Kirk would meet us and take us into McDermitt for some relief from the sun.

The day was scorching, but I was excited to hike. Even though we just met a few years ago, Sage and I share many through-hiking experiences. Tales of our different Appalachian Trail, Pacific Crest Trail and other hiking adventures helped the hot miles pass. We talked of the future of the ODT and the roll we have to play, and when we left the easy hiking of the two-track road for the cross-country miles, we played dodge the sagebrush and hop the fence.

Close to the highway we came upon a cool and clear cow tank and couldn't resist splashing around to escape the 100-plus-degree day. Water was plentiful in this flat walk, thanks to the ranchers and their numerous cow tanks. While it could be scummy with green algae or seeping into the ground in a muddy pool, we both were grateful for the appearance of water. We had both been on desert hikes before, on my Arizona Trail hike I often had to drink from muddy water full of cow pies, but that was infinitely preferable to no water. Sage had experienced all sorts of water sources on her Continental Divide Trail and Grand Enchantment Trail; any water is good water!

Kirk met us at the road and we sped to the Oregon/Nevada border town of McDermitt. Lunch was in the dark Say When Casino & Cafe on the Nevada side, and after she retrieved her food drop box and gift of cookies from Adam's mom, we drove to Anderson Crossing.

At Anderson Crossing (two day's walk from where the ODT meets Hwy 95) we planned to leave a food cache for Sage, and tonight would camp on the banks of the West Little Owyhee River. The crossing marks a 180-degree shift in trailtread, as from this point to the end of the trail Sage will be walking in the river canyon or along the rim of the dramatic geological wonder.

It was SO HOT, so we plopped camp chairs in the water and popped open a few beers. Little brook trout were plentiful and beaver activity had dammed up the river right above where we sat soaking our feet.

Kirk and I are packrafters and even though the waterway was narrow and choked with willows at places, decided a pack-rafting alternate would be a great addition to this section of the ODT.

In the morning the sun brought the heat back in full-force. Sage arranged and rearranged her gear; as she wasn't sure how efficient her travel would be though the canyon, she was packing extra food and decided to borrow Kirk's larger Granite Gear Vapor Trail pack (a favorite among many through-hikers for its light weight -- 2 lbs 5 oz -- and large capacity -- 59 liters or 3,600 cubic inches).

We dug a hole in the ground and buried her food, pilling it high with rocks to deter any animals.

We returned to McDermitt, where Sage checked into the motel for a true 0 day (no hiking) to rest her feet and prepare for the next section. After milkshakes and double-bacon cheeseburgers, we said our goodbyes and headed back to Bend.

It was great to be able to meet her in the midst of the hike and set her up for the next section. I'm excited to see the results of Sage's hike for when I tackle a through-hike of the ODT in a few years
- See more at: http://onda.org/where-we-work/oregon-desert-trail/blog/on-to-mcdermitt#sthash.U7RYtXVc.dpuf

As we drove down the two-track dirt road towards Schoolhouse Spring near the base of Oregon Canyon, the headlights bounced off curious jack rabbits and hopping field mice. Dusk brought little relief from the heat, and as we rolled up to our stopping place for the night, cows ran in all directions to escape the path of the vehicle.

We were attempting to meet Sage on the Oregon Desert Trail with gifts of fruit, cold beer and some good company. A strong wind and bright moonlight led to a restless night's sleep, but when Sage walked up at 6:30 the next morning we sprang up ready to hear about her adventure.

Apparently Oregon Canyon had been a bushwhack fest and her legs were red from hundreds of scratches; the brush was not forgiving. After some hot coffee and berries, we donned packs for the 12ish mile hike to Highway 95 where Kirk would meet us and take us into McDermitt for some relief from the sun.

The day was scorching, but I was excited to hike. Even though we just met a few years ago, Sage and I share many through-hiking experiences. Tales of our different Appalachian Trail, Pacific Crest Trail and other hiking adventures helped the hot miles pass. We talked of the future of the ODT and the roll we have to play, and when we left the easy hiking of the two-track road for the cross-country miles, we played dodge the sagebrush and hop the fence.

Close to the highway we came upon a cool and clear cow tank and couldn't resist splashing around to escape the 100-plus-degree day. Water was plentiful in this flat walk, thanks to the ranchers and their numerous cow tanks. While it could be scummy with green algae or seeping into the ground in a muddy pool, we both were grateful for the appearance of water. We had both been on desert hikes before, on my Arizona Trail hike I often had to drink from muddy water full of cow pies, but that was infinitely preferable to no water. Sage had experienced all sorts of water sources on her Continental Divide Trail and Grand Enchantment Trail; any water is good water!

Kirk met us at the road and we sped to the Oregon/Nevada border town of McDermitt. Lunch was in the dark Say When Casino & Cafe on the Nevada side, and after she retrieved her food drop box and gift of cookies from Adam's mom, we drove to Anderson Crossing.

At Anderson Crossing (two day's walk from where the ODT meets Hwy 95) we planned to leave a food cache for Sage, and tonight would camp on the banks of the West Little Owyhee River. The crossing marks a 180-degree shift in trailtread, as from this point to the end of the trail Sage will be walking in the river canyon or along the rim of the dramatic geological wonder.

It was SO HOT, so we plopped camp chairs in the water and popped open a few beers. Little brook trout were plentiful and beaver activity had dammed up the river right above where we sat soaking our feet.

Kirk and I are packrafters and even though the waterway was narrow and choked with willows at places, decided a pack-rafting alternate would be a great addition to this section of the ODT.

In the morning the sun brought the heat back in full-force. Sage arranged and rearranged her gear; as she wasn't sure how efficient her travel would be though the canyon, she was packing extra food and decided to borrow Kirk's larger Granite Gear Vapor Trail pack (a favorite among many through-hikers for its light weight -- 2 lbs 5 oz -- and large capacity -- 59 liters or 3,600 cubic inches).

We dug a hole in the ground and buried her food, pilling it high with rocks to deter any animals.

We returned to McDermitt, where Sage checked into the motel for a true 0 day (no hiking) to rest her feet and prepare for the next section. After milkshakes and double-bacon cheeseburgers, we said our goodbyes and headed back to Bend.

It was great to be able to meet her in the midst of the hike and set her up for the next section. I'm excited to see the results of Sage's hike for when I tackle a through-hike of the ODT in a few years
- See more at: http://onda.org/where-we-work/oregon-desert-trail/blog/on-to-mcdermitt#sthash.U7RYtXVc.dpuf

As we drove down the two-track dirt road towards Schoolhouse Spring near the base of Oregon Canyon, the headlights bounced off curious jack rabbits and hopping field mice. Dusk brought little relief from the heat, and as we rolled up to our stopping place for the night, cows ran in all directions to escape the path of the vehicle.

We were attempting to meet Sage on the Oregon Desert Trail with gifts of fruit, cold beer and some good company. A strong wind and bright moonlight led to a restless night's sleep, but when Sage walked up at 6:30 the next morning we sprang up ready to hear about her adventure.

Apparently Oregon Canyon had been a bushwhack fest and her legs were red from hundreds of scratches; the brush was not forgiving. After some hot coffee and berries, we donned packs for the 12ish mile hike to Highway 95 where Kirk would meet us and take us into McDermitt for some relief from the sun.

The day was scorching, but I was excited to hike. Even though we just met a few years ago, Sage and I share many through-hiking experiences. Tales of our different Appalachian Trail, Pacific Crest Trail and other hiking adventures helped the hot miles pass. We talked of the future of the ODT and the roll we have to play, and when we left the easy hiking of the two-track road for the cross-country miles, we played dodge the sagebrush and hop the fence.

Close to the highway we came upon a cool and clear cow tank and couldn't resist splashing around to escape the 100-plus-degree day. Water was plentiful in this flat walk, thanks to the ranchers and their numerous cow tanks. While it could be scummy with green algae or seeping into the ground in a muddy pool, we both were grateful for the appearance of water. We had both been on desert hikes before, on my Arizona Trail hike I often had to drink from muddy water full of cow pies, but that was infinitely preferable to no water. Sage had experienced all sorts of water sources on her Continental Divide Trail and Grand Enchantment Trail; any water is good water!

Kirk met us at the road and we sped to the Oregon/Nevada border town of McDermitt. Lunch was in the dark Say When Casino & Cafe on the Nevada side, and after she retrieved her food drop box and gift of cookies from Adam's mom, we drove to Anderson Crossing.

At Anderson Crossing (two day's walk from where the ODT meets Hwy 95) we planned to leave a food cache for Sage, and tonight would camp on the banks of the West Little Owyhee River. The crossing marks a 180-degree shift in trailtread, as from this point to the end of the trail Sage will be walking in the river canyon or along the rim of the dramatic geological wonder.

It was SO HOT, so we plopped camp chairs in the water and popped open a few beers. Little brook trout were plentiful and beaver activity had dammed up the river right above where we sat soaking our feet.

Kirk and I are packrafters and even though the waterway was narrow and choked with willows at places, decided a pack-rafting alternate would be a great addition to this section of the ODT.

In the morning the sun brought the heat back in full-force. Sage arranged and rearranged her gear; as she wasn't sure how efficient her travel would be though the canyon, she was packing extra food and decided to borrow Kirk's larger Granite Gear Vapor Trail pack (a favorite among many through-hikers for its light weight -- 2 lbs 5 oz -- and large capacity -- 59 liters or 3,600 cubic inches).

We dug a hole in the ground and buried her food, pilling it high with rocks to deter any animals.

We returned to McDermitt, where Sage checked into the motel for a true 0 day (no hiking) to rest her feet and prepare for the next section. After milkshakes and double-bacon cheeseburgers, we said our goodbyes and headed back to Bend.

It was great to be able to meet her in the midst of the hike and set her up for the next section. I'm excited to see the results of Sage's hike for when I tackle a through-hike of the ODT in a few years
- See more at: http://onda.org/where-we-work/oregon-desert-trail/blog/on-to-mcdermitt#sthash.U7RYtXVc.dpuf

Crater Lake Rim Ski Shut-out

We have intended to ski the rim of Crater Lake several times over the past few years, but the weather often has other ideas. Perhaps that is part of the allure. The feat, while not overly technical, can be thwarted by not enough snow, too much snow, high winds, ice, avalanche conditions and even visibility. Why ski around the rim of the deepest lake in North America if you can't see it?

Photo from Wikipedia

The ski route circumnavigates the 1,949 foot-deep-lake by following the rim road approximately 30 miles.

I'm incredibly fascinated about the lake's origins. The 12,000 foot Mount Mazama once existed where the lake is today, almost 6,000 feet higher than the rim!

6,000 - 8,000 years ago the mountain erupted with so much power that the ash and pumice from the event can be found covering nearly all of Oregon, Washington, Northern California, Idaho, Western Montana, and parts of Utah, Nevada, Wyoming, Alberta, British Columbia, and Saskatchewan.

Mount Mazama collapsed into itself and created the 5 x 6 mile wide caldera. The lake has no inlets or tributaries, so is incredibly pure.

Needless to say, your mind has a lot of incredible beauty and history to chew on while traveling around the rim.

An unseasonably warm and dry November and December had the rim snow at about 9" (with dirt patches showing) when we arrived the day after Christmas. An ice storm the week before had blanketed Oregon with an unsavory icy layer, but I had been monitoring the weather reports a few weeks before the trip and saw that temps were reaching the 50s up there. Maybe we would encounter a slushy mess instead of ice? Anyway, we decided to drive down and attempt the trip.

Crater Lake is about a two hour drive from Bend, and as we pulled up mid-afternoon we were still encountering ice on the road...hmmm, not a great sign!

Winter trips to the lake are free: no entry fees, no parking fees, no backcountry permit fees, but the park rangers do have you get a backcountry permit. While at the ranger office we were strongly advised against our trip. Apparently two rangers had gone out on x-country skis a few days before and made it less than 6 miles before turning around; the rim was bullet ice.

Grrr, would we be unable to make our trip? Kirk and I decided to ski out and try a night on the rim, we admitted we probably wouldn't make it the whole way around, but there was no way we would turn around, and they didn't say we couldn't go...

Wizard Island

Besides, we would have touring skis with metal edges, and skins if things got dicy.

Most tourists had been walking around in snow shoes, and about a mile of the trail from parking lot on the Southern edge of the rim was quite trampled.

We loaded up our packs and started sans skins, however before we even got 100 feet from the car we realized skins were necessary if we weren't going to plow over the tourists; we didn't want to stay in the narrow snow shoe trail with so many people coming and going, and once we stepped onto the ice there was no digging in with edges or easy stopping.

Ok. Skins on, we skiied.

Kirk adjusting the skins on his new Voile Charger BC skis

I'm wearing Kirk's Karhu XCD Guide Skis, and yep, that's the road showing through!

Hmmm, the ice is so thick we can't even make tracks.

We skied far enough to make camp before the sun set...and it was pretty obvious we wouldn't be skiing around the rim. The ice was much much to thick and it really wasn't fun! Even with skins on the going was dicy at times.

We found a scenic spot to set up our tent.

And enjoyed a beer on the rim for the sunset.

The next morning we drank our hot coffee while packing up, having decided to drive to the coast for the rest of our days off.

The clouds had moved in over night

Crater Lake, we will meet again.